By Michael Dransfield, Master Jeweller, Burgundy Bespoke
A diamond chosen for an engagement ring should feel right for the person who will wear it. Its shape, character and appearance all contribute to a ring that feels unmistakably theirs.
When deciding how to choose a diamond, the grading report and proportions are important starting points. The next step is looking carefully at the stone itself and considering how it will work in the design.
This is where my experience becomes particularly useful. I help clients move from a set of specifications to a considered selection of diamonds, explaining what I see and why I would recommend one over another.
What does a diamond certificate tell you?
A diamond certificate, more accurately called a grading report, records characteristics such as carat weight, colour, clarity and measurements.
That information helps establish what you are considering and allows meaningful comparisons between stones. It deserves careful attention.
However, a report cannot fully convey the appearance of the individual diamond. Two stones with similar specifications can look noticeably different, particularly in shapes such as ovals, where the proportions and arrangement of facets can vary.
For a bespoke engagement ring, I consider the report alongside the diamond’s appearance and its suitability for the piece we are creating.
How I narrow down a diamond selection
When sourcing a diamond for a client, I begin by using cut parameters to narrow the available options. These help me identify stones with proportions worth considering.
I then review the supplier’s images and videos, judging what I can see and how each stone catches the light.
This second stage matters. A diamond can meet the proportion ranges I am looking for and still have an appearance I find less attractive than another candidate.
I save the stones I favour or point out to the client why a particular diamond deserves consideration. The purpose is to make the choice clearer and explain the differences that specifications alone may leave unresolved.
An oval diamond provides a particularly useful example.
The bow-tie effect in oval diamonds
The bow-tie effect is a pattern of darkness that can appear across the centre of an oval diamond.
It is an optical effect involving the diamond’s facets, the lighting and the viewing position. The observer or camera can block incoming light, contributing to the dark reflection seen through the stone.
Some contrast is part of a diamond’s appearance and helps create its lively pattern. The concern is a dark band that becomes so prominent that it dominates the centre. Its presence alone does not tell you whether you will find the diamond attractive. GIA explains the bow-tie effect in its oval diamond guide.
When reviewing an oval, I pay attention to the overall distribution of reflections and any areas that appear dull or persistently dark.
Two oval diamonds may both pass my initial proportion filters, yet the images and videos can reveal a more balanced appearance in one and distracting dark areas in the other. That is a reason to look more closely before recommending either stone.
Why I look at videos as well as photographs
A photograph captures one moment, under one set of viewing conditions.
Video gives me more information about how the reflections change as the diamond moves. A dark area in a single frame may change considerably with movement, while another may remain more noticeable.
Lighting and camera position also affect what we see, so I interpret supplier material with those conditions in mind. A single dark photograph is not enough to establish that a diamond is poorly cut.
This is one reason I look beyond whether a stone simply meets a preferred set of measurements. Its appearance in movement adds information that a static specification cannot provide. GIA’s research discusses how movement and contrast affect diamond appearance.
Choosing the diamond with the finished ring in mind
The stone also needs to belong within the design.
An elongated oval and a fuller oval create different impressions. The scale of the diamond, the setting and the proportions of the band all influence the character of the finished ring.
We also need to consider the person who will wear it: their taste, how they use their hands and how they would like the ring to feel.
You may already know the shape and approximate size you want. You may have photographs, a basic design or a particular detail in mind. My role is to help develop those ideas and bring the choices together into a coherent piece.
More than five decades in jewellery have taught me to consider these decisions together. An appealing stone is part of the answer; the finished ring needs the same care and judgement.
Natural or lab-grown diamonds
Natural and lab-grown diamonds are both options for a bespoke commission. The choice should reflect your preferences and what matters to you about the piece.
Whichever you favour, I use the same principle of considering the individual stone’s appearance alongside its grading information and proportions.
We can discuss those preferences, establish an agreed budget and explore which diamonds deserve a place in your selection.
A personally guided choice
You do not need to arrive knowing every diamond term or having resolved every design decision.
You can begin with the person, an idea and the kind of ring you would love to create. I will help you understand the options, explain why I favour particular stones and consider how the diamond and design will work together.
The result should be a ring you feel confident commissioning and a diamond you love looking at.
Arrange a private consultation with Michael to discuss your ideas and a personally curated diamond selection. Consultations are available by appointment in Brisbane, the Gold Coast and the Sunshine Coast, or by Zoom for clients elsewhere in Australia.
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